Hexagon Pet Bed End Table

How could anyone forget these tables from the 70's? I think just about every home had one in at least one room!

When I came across a pair of these I knew exactly what I was going to do! When I purchased them, I thought that it had double doors, but when I got home I realized that one was not an actual door. Before I started to paint I removed the actual door and then sawed off the fake door. I also filled holes with wood filler and sanded it down.

For this project I used a sample size Valspar paint in "Rugged Suede". Sample size paints are a great way to do a small project for as little as possible. I think the run $4 or so and I had more than enough paint to complete this project.

I also used some white paint that I picked up for $2.50 because it was a mismatch. I always stop by the mismatch paints to see what they have sitting around. I've found some of the best paint and who can beat $2.50 for a pint or $7.50 for a gallon?!

I mixed both colors using the chalk paint recipe found here. The interior of the table was painted with the white to help brighten up the space. The Rugged Suede was used on the exterior of the table. Once the exterior was dry, I made a whitewash by mixing a bit of the white paint with about 4 parts water. This was brushed on, then wiped off with a damp rag. It really helped the design in the table edge stand out. I also used it along the base and the edge of each side of the table.

For the pet bed, I used a 2"x22"x22" piece of high density foam which was purchased at Joann Fabric. I had a 50% off coupon and was able to pick the foam up for fairly cheap. The fabric was also on sale and took approx. 2 yards to cover the foam. I cut the foam to fit the space then upholstered it.

The table was sealed with a matte polycrylic and voila! a super cute pet bed (or end table with storage underneath)!

Kitchen Table Wood Grain Technique - Creating a Wood Look OVER Chalk Paint

For the longest time I have wanted to paint a dining table for our family. When I stumbled upon this piece I knew it would be the one I would keep. The table came with two leaves that made it a total of 102" in length. It was in overall great condition, but the top did show wear and the seal was worn in several places.

Paint choices for this piece were Valspar's "Foxtrot" creamy white for the legs and sides of the table top and "Stone Statue" taupe/gray for the table top.  The top of the table was not solid wood so I would not be able to sand and restain. I wanted to keep a wood appearance so I decided to try my hand at wood graining.

Foxtrot

Stone Statue

To start, I buffed out the spots on the legs that were peeling.  I first applied paint to these areas. I wanted to get them layered as close to the existing white paint as possible. I allowed the touched up spots to fully dry then applied two coats to the entire legs, the sides of the table top and up under the lip of the table top around the outter edge. To add a distressed look I shabbied up a few of the edges on the legs as well as the sides of the table with a bit of sand paper. With three boys it is impossible to avoid scratches on the legs of almost any furniture in this home. By sanding it up here and there I knew I wouldn't have to stress too much about the paint being scratched over time. The white edge of the table was sealed with a matte polycrylic. I chose not to seal the legs.


After the legs and sides were complete. I moved on to the table top. 2 coats of the taupe/gray paint were applied to the top of the table and both leaves. Each coat was given over night to dry before applying the next layer.

 Next came the fun part! Creating the wood grain effect! For this process I picked up a Minwax Pro Series wiping stain in the color "Dark Roast". I also used a wood graining tool, 2in paint brush, a small flat bristled paint brush and some old rags. The first step was to stain the outer top edge of the table. I wanted to leave this part of the table in the dark roast color. I applied the stain with the flat paint brush in small sections and allowed it to sit for 3 to 5 minutes, then removed the excess product with a cotton rag.

Important tip when working with stain: Never EVER ball up a stain soaked rag and toss it aside when finished with it! Most stains used for wood are created with vegetable oil. This oil can breakdown resulting into the release of heat which can lead to a fire. Always open the rag up and lay it out to fully dry before disposing of it. 

After the edge was complete I begin to create the wood grain on the table top. At this point I had both leaves in place and would wood grain the top as a whole. I worked in sections as wide as the wood graining tool. A thin layer of stain was applied with the 2" paint brush down the entire length of the table. I then went back and slowly pulled the wood graining tool through the stain, gently rocking it back and forth which created the effect. Once finished with the section, I wiped the stain off the wood graining tool and started the next section by applying another row of stain. 

After 3 or 4 rows I would remove the extra stain from the 2" brush and then gently stroke over the first two rows. This removed the hardness of the lines created by the wood grain tool and gave the stain a softer more natural look. I also buffed out the stain on the edges of the table to give it a softer look. I was worried about the seams where the leaves met in the middle of the table. I didn't want grain that didn't flow nicely or evenly after removing a leaf so I buffed that section as well. 

I allowed the stain to fully dry after completing the wood grain pattern on the top of the table. I probably let it sit for 10 hours or longer to give it enough time to fully set. To seal the table I used my matte finish polycrylic. This was applied in a thin layer on the table top and edges where the stain was applied. Again, I let this fully dry before adding a 2nd and then 3rd coat. After each coat was fully dry I took a brown paper lunch bag and used it to gently sand the sealed area. This helps to remove any bubbles that might have settled with the seal. 

The overall this project was pretty inexpensive given the size of it. I paid $80 for the table, and used about a half can of paint ($7), a third of the stain ($5) and about half a can of sealant ($8). I also used 3 paint brushes and a handful of rags. I would estimate that the entire project cost under $130. Not bad for a brand new beautiful table! Now I just need to finish painting and reupholstering the 6 chairs I picked up to go with it! Chair blog will be coming soon!

Brief YouTube Wood Grain Effect tutorial can be found here: https://youtu.be/F12rzALu1EI

Gossip Bench

Thought I would share my latest piece real quick. I managed to pick up some mismatched paint at Lowe's, but wasn't sure what I would do with it. That was until I saw this piece! I painted it with the blue paint I picked up at Lowe's, then added a bit of white and also distressed the piece in a few spots. It was sealed with yes, you guessed it, matte polycrylic. I LOVE the fabric. It looks like burlap but is much softer and has dandelions on it. This was a fun piece to reclaim!

Ikea Tarno Bistro Table

Recently I came across a weathered Ikea Tarno bistro table, I paid $20 which was a decent price in my mind. Usually when I pick up a piece I intend to sell it after I've reclaimed it. This piece would be a Valentine's Day gift for my husband once completed. We have been looking for something small that would easily fold and store in the fifth wheel. This piece was perfect! The best part was that I would be able to stain it to match the gray design on the fifth wheel exterior.

I picked up a quart of Minwax Wood Finish (Classic Gray #271) for under $8 at Lowe's.

Each wood panel was sanded prior to staining. I wanted to see how much work the frame would need after cleaning it thoroughly. Luckily, I would not need to paint the black frame as it was in excellent condition.

The panels, which were fairly easy to remove, were stained with a cheap-o paint brush. I think they were around $8 for a three pack. Normally I would not stain furniture inside but due to the snow last night and the freezing temps I really had no choice. I wanted the stain to process and dry. Staining in the garage at such low temperatures does not always provide the best results. With the windows open and heat cranked up I went to work.

I stained in sections allowing each to dry for atleast 4 hours before moving to the next. Once each section was stained I started the process over with the next coat. After the 2nd coat was fully dried I decided that it was plenty of stain coverage. I then took each panel and sanded them lightly to reveal the wood. This would give it a beachy almost driftwood look.

Finally, I applied a coat of matte polycrylic that I had on hand. Polycrylic is one of my favorite sealants for both stains and chalk paint because it won't yellow over time. Once each panel was completely dried I reassembled the table and chairs.

Overall, this project was fairly simple and inexpensive. The entire cost for this project was around $30 and I still have enough stain to complete another small project.

French Provincial Coffee Table

I came across this piece a few months ago and have been dying to get to work on it! The moment I saw this table I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it. It's a fairly large table (approx 46.5x33.5x 20) and probably weighs 100lbs or more! The plan was to do a creamy colored piece that would fit in almost any home while really making all the character of this table really stand out by enhancing the curves and lines of the piece.

I thought I grabbed a before shot, but all I could find was the picture taken prior to me picking the piece up. The top was very worn as well as parts of the legs.

For the main color I went with "Foxtrot" by Valspar as the base.

I thought this would be a dark enough cream to go along with the chocolate "Moose Mousse" Antiquing Glaze (also by Valspar).

I cleaned the table with a damp rag before getting started, mixed my paint and got right to work. Overall, the piece was fairly easy to paint. It took a bit of work to get paint into all of the nooks and crannies. 2 coats of paint were used and allowed to fully dry before I started to apply the glaze.

She was looking beautiful already, but I really wanted to make the carvings stand out. To glaze the table I used a round (#10) brush and a larger standard 2" paintbrush. I also had a dry rag and a damp rag on hand to wipe off excess glaze.

 I placed the glaze in the areas that I wanted to really stand out. With a dry rag I wiped off the excess and then was able to remove the stain that I still felt was too dark in some areas with the damp rag. I wanted the look subtle and to not take away from the overall beauty of the piece.

Below you can see the difference between the glazed half on the right and the unglazed side on the left.

This process was completed around the entire table using both the small brush and the larger brush depending on the size of the area I was working with. On the top of the table I wiped across the remainder of stain from the brush, then gently buffed it out with a dry rag. The stain was allowed about 10 hours to set and dry before I moved on to the next step.

With this table I knew I wanted to properly seal it with something that would withstand normal coffee table wear and tear. I decided the best option was to use a polycrylic protective finish. As a rule, I try to stay away from polyurethane sealants, especially on light colored pieces because the finish tends to yellow over time. Polycrylic is a water based product and so far I have had nothing but success with it. I also knew that I wanted to keep the antique/chalky finish on this piece so I decided to use a clear matte polycrylic by Minwax. This would seal the piece but not change the overall look of it too much versus a satin which would give the table a shiny look.

The first coat was applied with another 2" paint brush in long sweeping motions on the top, sides, legs and really worked into all of the carvings. This coat was allowed to dry overnight. Before applying a second coat, I took a brown paper lunchsack and sanded the table. The paper bag has just enough texture to work out any bubbles or uneven texture that may have dried with the first coat.

A second coat of polycrylic was applied, allowed to dry and again lightly sanded. And with that, the French provincial coffee table was beautiful once more!

Antique Ethan Allen - Tavern Pine Collection Dry Sink

I have several completed pieces that I would like to share with you in a collection of blogs. Keep in mind that these pieces are already complete and most have moved on to their new homes.

The first piece that I would like to share was just recently completed on 1/13/15. This piece caught my eye the moment I saw it! Such a unique item with so much potential. Sometimes I really wish I could talk to furniture. The history behind this piece has to be amazing.

For those of you who don't know, a dry sink was a very common piece of furniture prior to the invention of plumbing. The recessed top often held a basin and pitcher. A dry sink was usually kept in the kitchen, bedroom or sometimes on the porch. I did a little research after buying this piece and dated it back to the 40's or 50's.

When I picked the piece up it was still in solid condition. I took it home and got right to work on it. With every piece I always imagine finding some kind of hidden treasure. As I begin to remove the drawers something caught my eye... an envelope was taped to the backside of the drawer! I couldn't get the drawer out fast enough to find what fortune was waiting for me in the envelope. To my surprise it was     -gasp-   EMPTY! Oh well, maybe next time.

After removing the drawers I began removing the hardware. All of the knobs, hinges and screws are placed into a sealed container so I do not lose them. After removing the hardware I then wiped down the entire piece with a damp rag to remove all dust and dirt.

Before painting I wanted to revive the wood that I would not be painting. I like to do this before painting to help protect these areas from spills. It also makes it easier to clean up any paint that may get on the wood. I've been loving the "As Seen on TV" product called Amish Wood Milk. This spray on, wipe off product easily removes dirt and dust build up while restoring the natural look of the wood. I was blown away by how flawless the wood was under the layers of dust. Nearly no cosmetic damage at all to the parts that I intended on leaving unpainted. There were a few light scratches which were easily covered with a bit of the antique wax that I will be using a bit later in the process.

Finally all prep is complete. Now comes the fun part... PAINTING!

I mixed my own chalk paint (recipe here). The color of choice for this piece was Silent Night by Olympic. This shade was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the dry sink. I mixed the paint and applied three layers. Each layer was applied after the previous layer had fully dried.

The final drying is important before applying any wax or finish to any piece. I like to let the paint air dry over night before proceeding with the finishing steps just to ensure that it has had enough time to dry. For this project I used a favorite wax of mine,  Martha Stewart's Vintage Decor Antique wax. It was applied with a stencil brush to gently distress the corners/edges. To get the distressed effect, stipple on a bit of dark wax then wipe excess off with a rag. Repeating this process in the same area will darken the effect. If you apply too much wax in an area simply wipe it off with a wet rag before it has a chance to dry. Like any layer, this too must dry before applying the final coat of wax. My final wax of choice for this piece was the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax. This wax is applied with a rag and then gently buffed out.

Last step was to install the new knobs and replace the doors. I like to leave the doors off until the last step to ensure that they are fully waxed, which tends to be difficult to do it they are reattached to the furniture. The knobs used were purchased at Hobby Lobby but the screws were about 2 inches too long for the doors and drawers. Cutting screws is a fairly easy task if you have the right tool. I prefer to use (yup you guessed it) a wire stripper! Okay, maybe you never would have guessed it but trust me when I tell you that this tool will be your knob cutting BFF. When cutting a screw you must make sure not to ruin the thread or it won't feed into the nut. This tool will easily cut your screws without damaging the thread. The round holes in the center will be used to cut your screw. Most drawer knobs are a 10-32. Simply screw the knob into the 10-32 hole making sure the stripper is open as shown and that the holes are lined up. Determine how much you want to cut off and screw the knob to this length. Goggles would probably be a good idea at this point as the end of the screw may fly off and you'd hate to have it hit you in the eye. Firmly grasp the handles and squeeze. The end you've cut off will fall to the counter and the knob can then be unscrewed from the pliers. Easy peasy!

I repeat the process on the other 5 knobs, install each onto the drawers/doors, attach the cabinet doors and the project is complete!





This is the part where I stand back and just take it all in. Isn't she beautiful?!

This reclaimed piece found its new home the day after I completed it. I hope she will love it as much as I do!