French Provincial Coffee Table

I came across this piece a few months ago and have been dying to get to work on it! The moment I saw this table I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it. It's a fairly large table (approx 46.5x33.5x 20) and probably weighs 100lbs or more! The plan was to do a creamy colored piece that would fit in almost any home while really making all the character of this table really stand out by enhancing the curves and lines of the piece.

I thought I grabbed a before shot, but all I could find was the picture taken prior to me picking the piece up. The top was very worn as well as parts of the legs.

For the main color I went with "Foxtrot" by Valspar as the base.

I thought this would be a dark enough cream to go along with the chocolate "Moose Mousse" Antiquing Glaze (also by Valspar).

I cleaned the table with a damp rag before getting started, mixed my paint and got right to work. Overall, the piece was fairly easy to paint. It took a bit of work to get paint into all of the nooks and crannies. 2 coats of paint were used and allowed to fully dry before I started to apply the glaze.

She was looking beautiful already, but I really wanted to make the carvings stand out. To glaze the table I used a round (#10) brush and a larger standard 2" paintbrush. I also had a dry rag and a damp rag on hand to wipe off excess glaze.

 I placed the glaze in the areas that I wanted to really stand out. With a dry rag I wiped off the excess and then was able to remove the stain that I still felt was too dark in some areas with the damp rag. I wanted the look subtle and to not take away from the overall beauty of the piece.

Below you can see the difference between the glazed half on the right and the unglazed side on the left.

This process was completed around the entire table using both the small brush and the larger brush depending on the size of the area I was working with. On the top of the table I wiped across the remainder of stain from the brush, then gently buffed it out with a dry rag. The stain was allowed about 10 hours to set and dry before I moved on to the next step.

With this table I knew I wanted to properly seal it with something that would withstand normal coffee table wear and tear. I decided the best option was to use a polycrylic protective finish. As a rule, I try to stay away from polyurethane sealants, especially on light colored pieces because the finish tends to yellow over time. Polycrylic is a water based product and so far I have had nothing but success with it. I also knew that I wanted to keep the antique/chalky finish on this piece so I decided to use a clear matte polycrylic by Minwax. This would seal the piece but not change the overall look of it too much versus a satin which would give the table a shiny look.

The first coat was applied with another 2" paint brush in long sweeping motions on the top, sides, legs and really worked into all of the carvings. This coat was allowed to dry overnight. Before applying a second coat, I took a brown paper lunchsack and sanded the table. The paper bag has just enough texture to work out any bubbles or uneven texture that may have dried with the first coat.

A second coat of polycrylic was applied, allowed to dry and again lightly sanded. And with that, the French provincial coffee table was beautiful once more!

Antique Ethan Allen - Tavern Pine Collection Dry Sink

I have several completed pieces that I would like to share with you in a collection of blogs. Keep in mind that these pieces are already complete and most have moved on to their new homes.

The first piece that I would like to share was just recently completed on 1/13/15. This piece caught my eye the moment I saw it! Such a unique item with so much potential. Sometimes I really wish I could talk to furniture. The history behind this piece has to be amazing.

For those of you who don't know, a dry sink was a very common piece of furniture prior to the invention of plumbing. The recessed top often held a basin and pitcher. A dry sink was usually kept in the kitchen, bedroom or sometimes on the porch. I did a little research after buying this piece and dated it back to the 40's or 50's.

When I picked the piece up it was still in solid condition. I took it home and got right to work on it. With every piece I always imagine finding some kind of hidden treasure. As I begin to remove the drawers something caught my eye... an envelope was taped to the backside of the drawer! I couldn't get the drawer out fast enough to find what fortune was waiting for me in the envelope. To my surprise it was     -gasp-   EMPTY! Oh well, maybe next time.

After removing the drawers I began removing the hardware. All of the knobs, hinges and screws are placed into a sealed container so I do not lose them. After removing the hardware I then wiped down the entire piece with a damp rag to remove all dust and dirt.

Before painting I wanted to revive the wood that I would not be painting. I like to do this before painting to help protect these areas from spills. It also makes it easier to clean up any paint that may get on the wood. I've been loving the "As Seen on TV" product called Amish Wood Milk. This spray on, wipe off product easily removes dirt and dust build up while restoring the natural look of the wood. I was blown away by how flawless the wood was under the layers of dust. Nearly no cosmetic damage at all to the parts that I intended on leaving unpainted. There were a few light scratches which were easily covered with a bit of the antique wax that I will be using a bit later in the process.

Finally all prep is complete. Now comes the fun part... PAINTING!

I mixed my own chalk paint (recipe here). The color of choice for this piece was Silent Night by Olympic. This shade was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the dry sink. I mixed the paint and applied three layers. Each layer was applied after the previous layer had fully dried.

The final drying is important before applying any wax or finish to any piece. I like to let the paint air dry over night before proceeding with the finishing steps just to ensure that it has had enough time to dry. For this project I used a favorite wax of mine,  Martha Stewart's Vintage Decor Antique wax. It was applied with a stencil brush to gently distress the corners/edges. To get the distressed effect, stipple on a bit of dark wax then wipe excess off with a rag. Repeating this process in the same area will darken the effect. If you apply too much wax in an area simply wipe it off with a wet rag before it has a chance to dry. Like any layer, this too must dry before applying the final coat of wax. My final wax of choice for this piece was the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax. This wax is applied with a rag and then gently buffed out.

Last step was to install the new knobs and replace the doors. I like to leave the doors off until the last step to ensure that they are fully waxed, which tends to be difficult to do it they are reattached to the furniture. The knobs used were purchased at Hobby Lobby but the screws were about 2 inches too long for the doors and drawers. Cutting screws is a fairly easy task if you have the right tool. I prefer to use (yup you guessed it) a wire stripper! Okay, maybe you never would have guessed it but trust me when I tell you that this tool will be your knob cutting BFF. When cutting a screw you must make sure not to ruin the thread or it won't feed into the nut. This tool will easily cut your screws without damaging the thread. The round holes in the center will be used to cut your screw. Most drawer knobs are a 10-32. Simply screw the knob into the 10-32 hole making sure the stripper is open as shown and that the holes are lined up. Determine how much you want to cut off and screw the knob to this length. Goggles would probably be a good idea at this point as the end of the screw may fly off and you'd hate to have it hit you in the eye. Firmly grasp the handles and squeeze. The end you've cut off will fall to the counter and the knob can then be unscrewed from the pliers. Easy peasy!

I repeat the process on the other 5 knobs, install each onto the drawers/doors, attach the cabinet doors and the project is complete!





This is the part where I stand back and just take it all in. Isn't she beautiful?!

This reclaimed piece found its new home the day after I completed it. I hope she will love it as much as I do!

Chalk Paint Recipe

Why do I use chalk paint?

The reason is simple. Chalk paint does not require prep, sanding or priming of wood furniture. There are some pieces you will find that will still require a bit of sanding. For instance, a piece that had stickers put on it back in the 70's or an item that has previously been painted. Aside from that you shouldn't need to sand or prime most pieces when using chalk paint.

Why do I mix my own?

1. It is SO much cheaper than the pre-mixed stuff
2. The color choices are endless 
3. I can mix up the amount I need at the time of each project
4. It tends to take less coats of paint compared to using a latex based paint

This being said, I do love me some chalk paint, but I also love using plain ol' latex paint. This, however, requires that you must first prime the item you will be painting. I tend to use this technique when painting an item that will not be distressed simply for the fact that it tends to hold up a bit longer than chalk paint. Over time a bit of wear and tear on a piece that has been chalk painted and distress only adds character. This is not the case on a piece that has been painted a solid coat of paint. Any scratch will stand out a mile away and is nearly impossible to fix once it is there. 

Just as any painted piece, neither technique are indestrustable, but primed and latex paint seems to outlast chalk paint. A chalk paint piece that is maintained will still last a very long time. I often suggest that anyone who owns a chalk piece finished with Minwax should continue to apply a coat of minwax every few months. Just like wood furniture, it needs to be cleaned and protected from time to time. Simply wax on, wax off. 

Before beginning any project I suggest that you determine which paint will work best for the project at hand. If chalk paint is the answer please feel free to use the recipe that I use.

Chalk Paint

1/3 cup Plaster of Paris

1/3 cup Water (room temp)

1 cup Latex Paint 

Mix the plaster of Paris and water in a container. I recommend using a quart size all purpose mixing container which can be found in the paint supply department of your local home improvement store. Make sure to purchase a lid for the container as chalk paint tends to thicken if left exposed and will do so fairly quickly.

Once completely mixed, you can add the latex paint in your choice of color. You will notice that the paint will end slightly thicker than it started. This is exactly the consistency you want!

** I do not recommend that you store and reuse chalk paint. If you begin a piece, make sure that you have enough time to complete it within a few days. 

Simply Serendipity

ser·en·dip·i·ty

ˌserənˈdipədē/

noun

• The effect by which one accidentally stumbles upon something truly wonderful, especially while looking for something totally unrelated. 
• The act of finding something valuable or delightful when you are not looking for it.
• The occurrence and development of events by chance in a happy or beneficial way.

synonyms:

(happy) chance, (happy) accident, blessing, fluke

The word serendipity has always had a deep meaning to me. I believe in fate. I believe things do happen for a reason. Whether these things happen by coincidence, perfect timing, or just plain luck, I believe that if you are open to the possibilities that it is possible for serendipitous moments in your life. 

I would find myself stumbling upon pieces of furniture by luck and sometimes by pure accident. Pieces that were once exquisite, that were no longer deemed beautiful or wanted. Each piece held a story and at one time or another meant something to someone. I found myself feeling sorry for these pieces. I wondered where they had come from and who they had belonged to. Oh the stories I bet they could tell if only they speak! I, unlike so many others, could still see the beauty in these pieces. I could see them as they had been many years ago, but more importantly I could see what they could be with a little love and a lot of elbow grease. I truly believe that I stumble up each piece by fate and not by luck or accident.

I began painting and repairing old furniture simply because I enjoyed taking something that was once worthy and making it spectacular again. The process of painting is relaxing to me. Perhaps this love for paint was passed on to me by my late Grandfather. He loved to paint. You name it, he painted it. Houses, furniture, walls and even garage floors. As a child, I remember finding it a bit strange that he seemed to paint the garage floor of every home he lived in but as an adult I now understand. Painting is a release. It soothes and heals. I find that I lose myself in the moment while I paint. All stresses and troubles of the day seems slowly to float out of mind with each stroke of the brush.

I feel a sense of accomplishment every time I complete a project. I put down the brush after the finishing touch, take a step back, and fully admire the finished design. It is almost as if you can see the newly reclaimed piece glowing with gratitude. The satisfaction I feel with each completed project is immense. My hope for each piece is that someone will now view it as worthy and beautiful again. May those who serendipitously cross paths with these new items treasure them as much as I do. 

Please join me on my adventures via this blog as I take what was discarded or broken and make it new again. I will do my best to provide a step by step detailed process per piece. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask and I will do my best to answer!

- Sarah Pasley at Simply Serendipity